The Sacred Heart Cathedral in Cordoba
This is the web log for our South American Odyssey. Three guys traveling from Texas to Tierra del Fuego, hoping not to see any one-eyed monsters or to hear any sirens. or Tres hombres en tres burros aleman de Texas a Tierra del Fuego.
Here´s a picture from the front of another Cordoba church. I wonder if St. Peter is aware of what it takes to keep him up there.
In this one David, Landon and I are having a little something to eat, and a little something to drink.
After David left for Buenos Aires, Landon and I loaded up the bikes and headed into sierra, stopping at the small town of Alta Gracia, boyhood home of Che Guevara. Here´s a shot of me standing in front of his famed motorcycle. They weren´t interesting in letting me sit on it for the photo opportunity.
Later we went over the mountains to the west of Cordoba on the dramatic road that leads to the resort town of Mina Clavero. A nearby museum seemed to include absolutely everything, including this shrunken head.
We set up our tents in a Mina Clavero campground with this beautiful view of the River Sauces and the sierra.
Landon left the next day to visit his friends in Santa Fe. I stayed behind and took a week of retreat in the campground, alternating times of solitude with extended conversations with other campers. I didn´t carry the camera much but did get this picture of two of my young neighbors on my bike and their dad. I really enjoyed Mina Clavero.
It was fun to meet up with Landon again in Rosario yesterday. The two main museums were closed this morning, but we did get the chance to visit the flag memorial which honors Argentina and the Organisation of American States. I like this picture of the fire in front of the tower overlooking the river.
These cherries reminded me of home in Nebraska. I picked a few and enjoyed them.
Same with these currants.
Here´s a picture of their daughter and her friend. They liked our stories and made us laugh.
Then we ran into the couple whose car had stalled along the road. Their car was fixed, and they gave us mate cups. We had the pleasure of seeing them several times in the next few days. They were selling local handicrafts at the fairgrounds.
Landon showed pictures of the rodeo and other events at the fairgrounds. Here are some pictures from the closing parade.
Two days ago we went to Punta Tombo and saw the largest penguin colony in the world--over 300,000. Here are two maturing chicks who are very fond of each other.
Now we are in Santa Rosa. Does this qualify as wearing a helmet? We´ve seen several bikers riding around with their headgear on their arms.
The windscreen on my bike finally went too far. The right bracket broke several months ago and I had it welded in San Jose, Costa Rica. But in December it broke again in the Patagonian wind. I braced it with duct tape and a bent piece of re bar I found in the parking lot. Then last week the other bracket cracked, and I made another brace out of a stick and duct tape for the other side. It all got a little shaky yesterday when it finally broke too. I ran into Jorge, a welder, in the hardware store this morning and went to his shop this afternoon. They were so great. They were surprised that we had driven all the way from Texas and interested about where we had been. He and his assistant, Abel, helped me get the windscreen off the bike, weld the brackets and paint them, and get it back on the bike. Then they broke out the ice water and ice cream bars. When I asked them how much it was, they said nothing. Just send us a post card when you get home so we know you made it okay. This photo is of them. It´s mostly the people that make this trip so wonderful and make me happy and proud to be human.
Of course there was the shearing competition, judged both on time and quality.
Some not so willing participants
Later, the gauchos had the rodeo, gaucho style. No chutes here, half the fun was getting on the horse.
The time for the ride seemed to be about 15 seconds
It was hard to tell because not alot of riders made it. The ground wasn't what you would call soft, either. Between rides the crowd was entertained by singing comedians who would ad-lib songs about the gauchos and their hometowns.
Sometimes it was kinda tough to watch. At least the ambulances were always at the gate, ready to go.
On Saturday night there was an award ceremony with the selection of a new Queen and a dance. The Queen was selected at 3 am and I didn't have the energy to stay for the dance, so I have no idea how it turned out.
On Sunday morning the gauchos paraded through town in their finest, it was quite the parade.
You have to see the blue sky of Tierra del Fuego to believe it.
Here´s a little more blue: an iceberg from the glacier that Landon wrote about.
We left some marks along this stretch of road. Even at slow speeds, it is easy to get off track in these ruts of Ruta 40.
Landon giving thanks for the tarmac at the end of gravel.
This is sunset at Bajo Caracoles, where we got the last room in the hotel after a hard day. It had a heater and hot water. We were grateful.
Morning rainbow over the campsite. I think to see the really spectacular stuff you need to spend 5 or 6 days hiking and camping your way around the Towers. We didn't have the time.
One of the bridges in the park.
The beaver dam in the Lapatia National Park
On the way to catch the ferry in Porvenir we found this German damsel in distress, luckily we had 15 liters of gas to help her and her friend get down the road. Sean doesn't know what he's missing
Lou learns valve adjustment in the campground in Ushuaia. The 40 degree mornings made it feel like winter here, and made it tough to get out of the sleeping bag.
it happens..... just unload it , stand it up , reload it and 20 minutes later you're on your way