Friday, November 9, 2007
Some things I´ve learned so far
In 1557, a traveler might have slept in this bed.
This traveler slept in this bed in 2007.
450 years of progress.
I liked this picture at the Colonial Museum in Bogota
Theology of the Holy Trinity in oil colors (same museum)
One reason Popayan, Colombia is a popular place to visit.
Things I´ve learned recently.
1. Colombians impress me as an exuberant bunch. The motorcycle was not accustomed to so much attention. At every stop light on our trip south scores of local motorcycles would gather around, and their riders would immediately start talking and asking questions. When we parked the bikes, people would gather around to visit. Along the roads of Colombia, the bikes ignited smiles and waves (and probably imaginations). It was fun.
2. The folks here in the mountains of Ecuador are very friendly, but they seem quieter, even shy. I´m wondering if it has to do with climate. I´m still wondering about this question--does a cold climate bring out the shy in a culture and a warm climate bring out the expressive?
3. Paying someone to help you get through a border will probably cost you more than money. Going through immigration and customs can be as much a cultural experience as going through a museum or church. Each border post has it´s own personality and deserves some time, but not too much. In my observation, when you hire a tramitador it takes longer than when you do it yourself.
4. I´d say the same thing about using an agent to ship a bike. Unless you have a lot of money and time, deal directly with the airline and ship it direct to yourself, not an agent. Then leave the same day your bike does. You may be able to go right to the cargo terminal and pick it up.
5. The U.S. State Department web site may be the least helpful place to go for security information regarding countries of the world. The overkill in warnings for practically every country on earth renders the site almost useless. If it covered the USA it would issue a dramatic warning about high risk travel on I35 between Waco and Oklahoma City because of a history of violence in those places. There are places of risk for travelers in the world. You´ll probably need to go elsewhere than the State Department to find out where they really are.
6. It´s a wonderful thing to be an outsider and meet so many folks who by nature offer hospitality.
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Happy Birthday, Tyler
More Pics
These students were with their teacher at the border of Colombia and Ecuador, hoping to find some English speaking travelers passing through. They were from Ipiales, Colombia, and hit paydirt with us.
Yes, this is the municipal cockfighting ring in Otavalo. For those of you unfamiliar with it, it's kind of a UFC for roosters.
Tuesday, November 6, 2007
Equador
We have arrived in Otavalo, Equador.
Southern Colombia offered days of wonderful rides and people. Heavy cloud cover has hampered internet service here, and two electrical outages have made it difficult to post a blog. I´ll post more text and pictures as soon as possible.
Southern Colombia offered days of wonderful rides and people. Heavy cloud cover has hampered internet service here, and two electrical outages have made it difficult to post a blog. I´ll post more text and pictures as soon as possible.
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Bogota
Bogota had it´s delays and challenges, but they were manageable. While working on the problems (Sean´s blog has a detailed description), we had the privilege of meeting some wonderful people and exchanging some good stories and jokes. We had very little free time. Bogota´s main attraction for me, the Gold Museum, was closed for remodeling. The central plaza and cathedral were blocked off for an official ceremony. And we didn´t get to the salt mine and church. But we were able to take come walks in the old city, have some great conversations, and solve the problems. I found the time in the city to be very positive, and we´re hoping to get back to Bogota when we finish our ride in South America.
We did indeed free our bikes from their cages on Thursday. Processing them through customs took all morning. Getting them out of the airline cargo bay took all afternoon. The entire front of the cargo terminal was a loading dock, with a couple narrow, railed stairs for customers and workers--too narrow and steep for the bikes. The problem was how to get the bikes down the drop.
Everything was considered from an I-beam ramp (too high, narrow, and steep) to driving them around the back of the terminal and out the service entrance (the obvious solution, but it wasn´t acceptable to the airport security). By mid-afternoon 30 people were working on the problem. Finally someone mentioned that they had a fork lift in the parking lot. With a large aluminum palate and a skilled driver, each bike in turn was smoothly lowered to ground level. And we drove off jubilantly into a deluge that was just hitting the city. It was a baptismal experience of the highest order.
We did indeed free our bikes from their cages on Thursday. Processing them through customs took all morning. Getting them out of the airline cargo bay took all afternoon. The entire front of the cargo terminal was a loading dock, with a couple narrow, railed stairs for customers and workers--too narrow and steep for the bikes. The problem was how to get the bikes down the drop.
Everything was considered from an I-beam ramp (too high, narrow, and steep) to driving them around the back of the terminal and out the service entrance (the obvious solution, but it wasn´t acceptable to the airport security). By mid-afternoon 30 people were working on the problem. Finally someone mentioned that they had a fork lift in the parking lot. With a large aluminum palate and a skilled driver, each bike in turn was smoothly lowered to ground level. And we drove off jubilantly into a deluge that was just hitting the city. It was a baptismal experience of the highest order.
Chalecos, they're mandatory.
Colombian Highway
Some days it's just too much
Popayan
Some days it's just too much
Popayan
So wehave been in Colombia nearly a week and the only problems have been with the guerillas of the urban tribe, you know the kind with the suit and tie that think you haven´t done your homework. So we left Bogota in the rain and only two or three hours of daylight to ride and we ended up inFusagasuga, a town well known in these parts for growing the national flower of Colombia, the Orchid. The hillsides were covered with greenhouses full of colorful flowers. The Hotel there was really cheap, but nearly brand new. $US17 a night for 3 people. After we left there we headed down into avalley and then up into the mountains to cross the pass near Armenia at close to 11,000 feet and 55 degrees f. We finished the day about 15 miles east of Cali in the town of Palmira. About 20 miles outside of Palmira we started to see acre upon acre of the plants they make fine white powder for the American consumer from, you know it as sugar, here it's call azucar. Every miles there were warnings about the crossing of the "cane train", opwards of 6 massive, self dumping trailers hooked together and being pulled by large trucks or tractors. After a bug infested night in Hotel El Dorado we moved south to Popayan, a touristy colonial town at about 6,000 ft . If you would have told me the climate would be this pleasant this close to the border I wouldn't have believed you. The roads have had military checkpoints every 20 miles or less, so it seems things are pretty calm at this moment.The roads and sceneryhave been absolutely breathtaking, especially when you comearound a mountain curve looking at a truck in his right lane,a bus in his passing lane, and another car passing them in your lane . Maybe that's why some folks call it Locombia?
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