Machu Picchu

The traditional sunrise shot.

Yes, I did take this wonderful picture! ¿Como se llama?

Shawn and me at the top of the mountain at Machu Picchu

Going down was more unnerving than going up.

Shawn´s parents happened to be in town and we had dinner with them. (remember Sean Tucker is missing because he was on the "young man´s" bike trip.

In and around Cuzco

A warm cup of coca tea. Against the law in many countries.

Salesperson at the plaza.

Lou, Shawn and Landon at the Inca ruins above the city. Sean Tucker is missing because he went on a "young man´s" bike trip up to Machu Picchu.

Shawn receiving energy from the 12 angle Inca stone.

A little leaguer at the convent.

The Road to Cuzco

Lou had the fish dish.

Landon and Sean tried the cuy (Guinea Pig is a favorite here)

A mall in Lima. We traveled how far to get here?

Shawn Norris, astronaut in the Peruvian desert

The Nazca lines.

We spent several days in Lima, which is really a much more beautiful city than the guidebooks would lead one to believe. A wonderful couple hosted us in their home, and there was time to catch up on email, wash clothes, change oil in the bikes and take in some of the sites. During the morning of the last day in Lima I went to the airport to pick up my friend Shawn Norris who came in from Kansas City. He will ride along with us for 10 days. Then we all drove south along the desert coast to Nazca.

The next morning was Thanksgiving Day at home, and we experienced temperatures in the 80s. As we drove up into the high sierra, the scenery was spectacular. However the clouds moved in and the temperatures dropped until we were plowing through freezing rain and snow in the middle of nowhere. We spent a couple of miserable hours on top until we dropped down from the high country along a river to Chalhuanca, a little town that advertised hot water above the front door. If it would have cost $100 we would have been thankful, but it was only $8 a night. The next day we took the remainder of the road to Cuzco. It was comparatively tame.

Trujillo to Huaraz

We stopped in the town of Pariocoto for the night before we took on the trail to Huaraz. Two Catholic Priests from this town were killed by the Shining Path in the 1970's. Their death helped reduce the power of the Shining Path in this area, and they are entomed in the Church here.

I can't delete this

The road to Huaraz

The trip to Huaraz rewarded us with a beautiful view of the snow capped mountains.

When we left Tujillo, we stopped at the Huaca de la Luna, a pyramid that had been covered by a sand dune until it was discoveredi in the 1990´s.

The "road" to Huaraz included several surprises along the was.

Into Peru

As you can see, northern Peru is a whole lotta sand and not much else.

Crossing an intersection in downtown Trujillo, Peru. It's basically a live version of the old "Frogger" video game,...... don't blink.

Just like home, a cement factory in Pacasmayo, Peru.

Hepco & Becker 1, BMW 0

Some Pictures From Ecuador

While we were in Quito, we toured the Old Town and the Basilica del Voto Nacional, the tallest church in Ecuador.

This is a view from the clock towers, look towards the steeple.

The view from the steeple, looking baback towards the clock towers. (Yes, you can go higher, but weak knees and a strong pucker factor stopped yours truly.)

An Inca woman waiting for a ride on the road south from Rio Bamba to Loja

The drier side of the Ecuadorian Andes heading to the Peruvian border at Macara.

Some questions from Ecuador

If a dollar is worth 10.5 pesos and 1 gallon is equal to 4.5461 litres, how much is gas in Ecuador? (the answer is at the bottom of the blog.)

How far away from a volcano do you have to be if it blows up?

You be the judge, does it flush counter-clockwise down here?

We crossed the equator several days ago and spent a couple of wonderful days in the capital city. The cathedral and the nation's main museum were highlights. No one should complain about the prices of things here. The only critical thing I would say is that they could use a few more street and road signs. This morning we moved south from Quito to Riobamba.

It's hard to imagine that as long as we have been on the road, we are only a bit more than one-third the way south from Austin, Texas (30 degrees north) to Tierra del Fuego (55 degrees south, comparable to Juneau, Alaska at about 55 degrees north.) We look forward to getting into Peru in the next day or two and traveling along the Pacific coast to Lima.

Answer:

Alright, it was a trick question. A gallon of regular (Extra) costs $1.48. That's right. Ecuador uses the dollar as it's official currency and uses gallons instead of litres. It means what it says: A gallon of premium costs $2.16 down here. What's not to like about Ecuador!

Natural wonders of Ecuador

A woman in the market

Boys on the street

The path to a waterfall

Lunch two days in a row.

The cebiche we had for lunch today.

Some things I´ve learned so far

In 1557, a traveler might have slept in this bed.

This traveler slept in this bed in 2007.

450 years of progress.

I liked this picture at the Colonial Museum in Bogota

Theology of the Holy Trinity in oil colors (same museum)

One reason Popayan, Colombia is a popular place to visit.

Things I´ve learned recently.

1. Colombians impress me as an exuberant bunch. The motorcycle was not accustomed to so much attention. At every stop light on our trip south scores of local motorcycles would gather around, and their riders would immediately start talking and asking questions. When we parked the bikes, people would gather around to visit. Along the roads of Colombia, the bikes ignited smiles and waves (and probably imaginations). It was fun.

2. The folks here in the mountains of Ecuador are very friendly, but they seem quieter, even shy. I´m wondering if it has to do with climate. I´m still wondering about this question--does a cold climate bring out the shy in a culture and a warm climate bring out the expressive?

3. Paying someone to help you get through a border will probably cost you more than money. Going through immigration and customs can be as much a cultural experience as going through a museum or church. Each border post has it´s own personality and deserves some time, but not too much. In my observation, when you hire a tramitador it takes longer than when you do it yourself.

4. I´d say the same thing about using an agent to ship a bike. Unless you have a lot of money and time, deal directly with the airline and ship it direct to yourself, not an agent. Then leave the same day your bike does. You may be able to go right to the cargo terminal and pick it up.

5. The U.S. State Department web site may be the least helpful place to go for security information regarding countries of the world. The overkill in warnings for practically every country on earth renders the site almost useless. If it covered the USA it would issue a dramatic warning about high risk travel on I35 between Waco and Oklahoma City because of a history of violence in those places. There are places of risk for travelers in the world. You´ll probably need to go elsewhere than the State Department to find out where they really are.

6. It´s a wonderful thing to be an outsider and meet so many folks who by nature offer hospitality.

Happy Birthday, Tyler

Since I don't know when my next stop is, I'd like to wish my nephew happy birthday! Lake just northwest of Otavalo

Slight erosion problem

Peguche Falls near Otavalo

Lou riding away from Peguche Falls

Sometimes the landslides don't get cleaned up right away

More Pics

These students were with their teacher at the border of Colombia and Ecuador, hoping to find some English speaking travelers passing through. They were from Ipiales, Colombia, and hit paydirt with us.

Just hangin' out in Otavalo

Yes, this is the municipal cockfighting ring in Otavalo. For those of you unfamiliar with it, it's kind of a UFC for roosters.

Some big ole doors

Plaza in Otavalo

Some pics from our travels

"For those about to rock"

Popayan at night

Pre Colombian works in the hotel lobby

How would you get it home?

Colombian Highway

Equador

We have arrived in Otavalo, Equador.

Southern Colombia offered days of wonderful rides and people. Heavy cloud cover has hampered internet service here, and two electrical outages have made it difficult to post a blog. I´ll post more text and pictures as soon as possible.

Bogota

Bogota had it´s delays and challenges, but they were manageable. While working on the problems (Sean´s blog has a detailed description), we had the privilege of meeting some wonderful people and exchanging some good stories and jokes. We had very little free time. Bogota´s main attraction for me, the Gold Museum, was closed for remodeling. The central plaza and cathedral were blocked off for an official ceremony. And we didn´t get to the salt mine and church. But we were able to take come walks in the old city, have some great conversations, and solve the problems. I found the time in the city to be very positive, and we´re hoping to get back to Bogota when we finish our ride in South America.

We did indeed free our bikes from their cages on Thursday. Processing them through customs took all morning. Getting them out of the airline cargo bay took all afternoon. The entire front of the cargo terminal was a loading dock, with a couple narrow, railed stairs for customers and workers--too narrow and steep for the bikes. The problem was how to get the bikes down the drop.

Everything was considered from an I-beam ramp (too high, narrow, and steep) to driving them around the back of the terminal and out the service entrance (the obvious solution, but it wasn´t acceptable to the airport security). By mid-afternoon 30 people were working on the problem. Finally someone mentioned that they had a fork lift in the parking lot. With a large aluminum palate and a skilled driver, each bike in turn was smoothly lowered to ground level. And we drove off jubilantly into a deluge that was just hitting the city. It was a baptismal experience of the highest order.

Chalecos, they're mandatory.

Colombian Highway
Some days it's just too much
Popayan

So wehave been in Colombia nearly a week and the only problems have been with the guerillas of the urban tribe, you know the kind with the suit and tie that think you haven´t done your homework. So we left Bogota in the rain and only two or three hours of daylight to ride and we ended up inFusagasuga, a town well known in these parts for growing the national flower of Colombia, the Orchid. The hillsides were covered with greenhouses full of colorful flowers. The Hotel there was really cheap, but nearly brand new. $US17 a night for 3 people. After we left there we headed down into avalley and then up into the mountains to cross the pass near Armenia at close to 11,000 feet and 55 degrees f. We finished the day about 15 miles east of Cali in the town of Palmira. About 20 miles outside of Palmira we started to see acre upon acre of the plants they make fine white powder for the American consumer from, you know it as sugar, here it's call azucar. Every miles there were warnings about the crossing of the "cane train", opwards of 6 massive, self dumping trailers hooked together and being pulled by large trucks or tractors. After a bug infested night in Hotel El Dorado we moved south to Popayan, a touristy colonial town at about 6,000 ft . If you would have told me the climate would be this pleasant this close to the border I wouldn't have believed you. The roads have had military checkpoints every 20 miles or less, so it seems things are pretty calm at this moment.The roads and sceneryhave been absolutely breathtaking, especially when you comearound a mountain curve looking at a truck in his right lane,a bus in his passing lane, and another car passing them in your lane . Maybe that's why some folks call it Locombia?